To ensure that your lawn is in top condition You will have to change the blades on your lawn mower on occasion. Replacing blades is an simple task that requires only just a few steps, and a few basic tools.
The best lawn mower blades are made of sturdy materials for construction that can make sure they last for longer without becoming rusty quickly. They must also be able to stand up to high amounts of force.
Deck Blade
The cutting blade is the most important part of a lawnmower. It is enclosed in a casing called a deck and comes in a variety of sizes, shapes and styles. Each comes with particular specifications and must be able to handle fast contact with grass as well as other items.
Standard blades are curved and raise the grass using a scissor action. The curved blade also helps by dispersing clippings. This blade isn’t as strong than one with a higher lift and can be used on sandy or dusty terrain.
The cylinder blades, also known as reel blades comprise 3-7 helical shaped blades which are joined to create an elongated cylinder reel. These blades are employed in gas or reel-powered lawn mowers. This is the most common model and is easy to change. Blades are sharpened and rebalanced by many hardware or lawn care stores at a nominal cost.
Standard Blade
The most popular type of blade for lawn mowers is the flat blade. It’s made to cut grass, but it doesn’t have special features such as mulching or bagging. It has a minimal suction, and it works on all types of grass.
High-lift blades have specific angles around their edges that let the most airflow. This results in vertical suction that brings the ironclad grass mower blade sharpener to the deck of your mower. This gives the perfect appearance to your lawn. The blades can also be used to mow on sandy terrains.
When you are using these lawn mower blades make sure that the holes for the shear pins are properly aligned with the mower’s center bolt hole. In the absence of this, the blade will not sit on the boss of the blade in a proper way. This could result in the blade wearing away quicker than you would expect. To ensure that the shear pins are placed properly, it is suggested to refer to the mower’s manual or parts catalog for the position of the holes.
Lifting Blade
In essence, these blades re-circulate air to reduce clogging within the mower deck while still providing an excellent cut. The blades are bent inward creating a vacuum that raises the grass and delivers it to your bagging system or side discharge.
These blades are also more effective in cutting grass that is longer than blades with an lower lift. They’re also great for lawn clippings that you want to mulch. They can be used with a 3-in-1 blade or a 2-in-1 blade.
The only downside of the blades is that they require the use of a more powerful lawn mower to prevent them from straining the motor. They’re not recommended for sandy or dusty terrain where sand and grit can be sucked up and cause damage to the mower deck faster.
Mulching Blade
A very popular option for those who don’t have a bagger This blade permits the clippings to be disposed of, mulched or ejected from your mower’s discharge chute. With larger “wind wings” than those found on regular lawn mower blades they create an efficient airflow under the grass clippings so they aren’t thrown into the air and can safely be ejected out of your mower.
Make sure you check the angle of the mulching blade of the lawn mower to ensure that it’s installed correctly. The bevel is the slope that cuts at the edge of the blade. It should be pointing downwards when you mow. If not, the sharp side of the blade may scratch up your mower’s deck. Be sure that the blade isn’t bent at an angle that is not natural. This could result in it not working when cutting taller grass. This is typically the sign of a broken blade.